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PAISLEY ABBEY
In 1163, Walter FitzAlan, the first High Steward of Scotland issued a charter for a priory to be set up on land owned by him in Paisley. Thirteen(?) monks came from the Cluniac priory at Much Wenlock in Shropshire to found the community at Paisley which grew so rapidly that it was raised to the status of abbey in 1219?. In 1307, Edward I of England had the abbey burned down. However, it was rebuilt later in the 14th century. William Wallace, born in nearby Elderslie is believed to have been educated for some time when he was a boy in the abbey.
In 1316 Marjorie Bruce, daughter of Robert I of Scotland and wife of Walter Stewart, the sixth High Steward of Scotland, was out riding near the abbey. Heavily pregnant at the time, she fell from her horse and was taken to Paisley Abbey where she gave birth to King Robert II. However, Marjorie Bruce died and is buried at the Abbey. In the abbey itself there are signs which indicate that Marjorie's baby was cut out of her womb, a caesarean delivery long before anaesthesia was available. A cairn, at the junction of Dundonald Road and Renfrew Road, approximately one mile to the north of the Abbey, marks the spot where she reputedly fell from her horse.
A succession of fires and the collapse of the tower in the 15th and 16th centuries left the building in a partially ruined state. Although the western section was still used for worship, the eastern section was widely plundered for its stone. From 1858 to 1928, the north porch and the eastern choir were reconstructed on the remains of the ruined walls by the architect Macgregor Chalmers. After his death, work on the choir was completed by Sir Robert Lorimer. In 1244, monks from Paisley founded Crossraguel Abbey in Carrick, Ayrshire.
Paisley Abbey is the burial place of all six High Stewards of Scotland, Marjorie Bruce who was the mother of Robert II and the wives of Robert II and King Robert III. The Celtic Barochan Cross, once sited near the village of Houston, Renfrewshire, is now to be found inside the abbey. The Cross is thought to date from the 10th century. In the early 1990s, an ancient vaulted drain of extremely fine construction, probably 13th century in date, was rediscovered running from the abbey to the White Cart. This was excavated and many items discovered. Some of these are now on display in the abbey. These include a slate with music marked on it - which is believed to the oldest example of polyphonic music found in Scotland. A tomb in the choir incorporating a much restored female effigy is widely believed to be that of Marjorie Bruce. Although there is no evidence that she is buried at exactly that location, her remains are thought to be within the abbey. The tomb is reconstructed from fragments of different origin - the base, is likely to have originally formed part of the pulpitum of the Abbey (a stone screen separating nave and choir), such as survives at Glasgow Cathedral. The Abbey organ is reputedly one of the finest in Scotland and was originally built by the French organ builder Cavaillé-Coll of Paris in 1872. Since then it has been rebuilt and extended four times. The organ as rebuilt by Walkers in 1968 has 4 manuals, 65 stops and 5448 pipes.(National Pipe Organ Register; "The Organ at Paisley Abbey", booklet pub. Paisley Abbey) In 2009 the instrument underwent a major restoration by Harrison and Harrison of Durham. The work included major cleaning and servicing, the provision of a new wind system and the addition of a 32ft contre bombarde. The latter was part of the 1968 scheme by Ralph Downes but not included in the work actually undertaken. (www.wikipedia.org). See also www.paisleyabbey.org.uk.
PAISLEY ART GALLERY AND MUSEUM Paisley Art Gallery has a year-round program of temporary exhibitions, as well as permanent collections of studio ceramics, paintings and sculpture, and a ceramics collection of over 500 pieces. Admission is free but donations welcome. See www.renfrewshire.gov.uk for more information.
PAISLEY CENTRAL LIBRARY
PAISLEY SHERIFF COURT
FORMER ANCHOR MILL BUILDING
THE HAMMILLS
ST MIRIN RC CATHEDRAL
OAKSHAW TRINITY (HIGH CHURCH) The first bell was put in place in 1771, but has been replaced and recast several times. The current bell dates from 1866. In 1825 the Paisley Advertiser published an article claiming there was a mystical little fairy-like figure called "Wee Leach" on the spire smoking a pipe. Those with good eyesight could see him, and those with poor eyesight couldn't. As a reminder to this, there is a pair of stone glasses embedded into the adjacent pavement. The church lies in the Oakshaw conservation area, which includes 5 A-grade, 19 B-grade and 13 C-grade listed buildings.
COATS OBSERVATORY
PAISLEY TOWN HALL A competition was held to design the building, and was won by a local firm of architects. This decision was deemed unsuitable by the Clark family who chose another design. The Town Hall was opened in 1882 and today is still Renfrewshire's largest entertainment and conference venue.
THOMAS COATS MEMORIAL CHURCH
JOHN NEILSON INSTITUTE
TANNAHILL COTTAGE The cottage has a passage through the centre, the north side being occupied as a dwelling-house and the south side as a four-loom weaving shop. After a fire in June 2003, the building was restored, and the thatched roof replaced by slates. Admission and access is by arrangement only with details at www.paisleyburnsclub.org.uk.
SMA' SHOT COTTAGE
PAISLEY ARTS CENTRE One famous minister of the church was Dr. John Witherspoon, who later moved to North America and was one of the signatories of the American Declaration of Independence. In 1987 the building was converted into an arts centre, and today is one of Scotland's premier touring theatre venues. It is also home to the Paisley Film Society, who show films in the only cinema in the town centre.
RUSSELL INSTITUTE She wanted a design that was out of the ordinary and that would provide accommodation for all aspects of child welfare. The accommodation included x-ray, disinfection and laboratory facilities, maternity, orthopaedic and dental clinics, and clinics for the treatment of tuberculosis, and diseases of the ear, nose and throat. It opened in 1927 as a child welfare clinic and continues to serve this purpose today.
THREADMILL MUSEUM Coats and Clark Company which was a combination of the Anchor Thread Mill and the Ferguslie Thread Mill, at one time produced 90% of all the thread made in the world. 10,000 workers were employed in the mills. Abbeymiill Business Centre, Mile End Mill, 12 Seed Hill Road, Ph: 0141 847 1111.
PAISLEY WAR MEMORIAL The memorial was built to the memory of the 1,923 local men who died in WWI. On the memorial plinth can be found the arms of the burgh, and shields of St Andrew and St George. The memorial was restored and cleaned 1991
LAGOON LEISURE CENTRE Facilities include a large, six court sports hall with seating for up to 360 spectators, free form leisure pool with wave machine and flume, separate teaching pool, arena Hall for events and other activities such as Hockey and 7-a-side football. There is also a modern fitness suite, changing and showering facilities, coffee shop, health and beauty treatment rooms and a dance and exercise studio.
www.renfrewshireleisure.com Ph: 0141 889 4000
FOUNTAIN GARDENS
It is believed that Saint Mirin founded a community on this site in 7th century. Some time after his death a shrine to the Saint was established becoming a popular site of pilgrimage and veneration. The name Paisley may derive from the Brythonic Passeleg, 'basilica' (derived from the Greek), ie. 'major church', recalling an early, though undocumented, ecclesiastical importance.
Paisley Museum opened in 1871. The building was designed by the well-known Glasgow architect John Honeyman and was paid for by Sir Peter Coats of the famous Coats thread manufacturing family. Housed is a wealth of treasures, from Ancient Egyptian artefacts to reminders of Paisley's industrial past and natural heritage. Among the displays, pride of place goes to The Arbuthnott Missal and the unique textile collection. The Paisley Shawl Collection cared for by Renfrewshire Arts and Museums Service is a Recognised Collection of National Significance to Scotland.
In 1808 the Paisley Philosophical Society was established with the aim of self-improvement for themselves and fellow townsmen, through the collection of books and museum artifacts. As their collections grew, so too did the need for a building to house them. The Free Library and Museum was designed by John Honeyman, and built in 1871. The cost of construction was donated by Peter Coats, a Paisley thread manufacturer. The library was stocked with books from the collections gathered by the Paisley Philosophical Society, and by donations. Once open, the library and museum were very popular, so much so that the building was soon outgrown. In 1904, a major extension was added to the building, with the cost donated by James Coats, son of Peter Coats. The extension projects forward to the street, with a narrower version of the original temple front. Today the main reference collections are in Paisley Central Reference Library and include the Arbuthnott Manuscripts and Audubon's Birds of America, a wide collection of local newspapers dating from 1824, magazines and journals, maps, atlases and town guides, business information and directories. See www.renfrewshire.gov.uk for more information.
The first building to be constructed was the symmetrical two-story palazzo with the balconied Roman Doric columns. This is the section furthest from the road intersection. It was opened in July 1885 and served as the Paisley Sheriff Court. In 1890 the structure to the east was opened, and became the Renfrew County Building. Both a-grade listed buildings now serve as the Paisley Sheriff Court. Inside are four small general purpose courts and one large court on the ground floor. On the first floor are two large Jury courts and the Appeal Court. Rear extensions were completed in 1997.
The domestic finishing mill was part of a larger complex known collectively as the 'Anchor Mills'. The mill was built in 1886, and is of red brick with a sandstone balustrade. It occupies an area of 36,000 square feet. Internally, the mill has a central well topped with an unusual glass lantern light. This allowed light in, and also provided space for the drive belts from the engine on the ground floor to reach the machines on the upper floors. The mill was one of the earliest buildings in Paisley to have electric light. The mill was built for John Clark, of the Clark family of Paisley. The Clark family were successful thread manufacturers who, together with the Coats family, played a key role in achieving Paisley's status as a world leader in the manufacture of thread. The Clark company logo was an anchor. The Anchor Mills complex employed many hundreds of local people. When the finishing mill was built the complex filled 9 acres. By 1914 it covered 28 acres and by 1952 it had spread to 51 acres. Work in the domestic finishing mill finished in the 1980s, and the mill lay empty and neglected for twenty years until a regeneration project saved this landmark building. It now contains businesses and private apartments. See
www.renfrewshire.gov.uk.
The Hammills are natural rapids in the River Cart. They were later dammed to supply water for two thread mills. Alexander Wilson was a famous poet and ornithologist, born in Paisley in 1766. In 1793, Wilson emigrated to America. He took a job as a packman and travelled throughout New Jersey, becoming ever more fascinated by the birdlife he saw on his travels. He was then appointed schoolmaster at a school near Philadelphia where he continued his studies of birdlife. In 1806 Wilson took up employment with Philadelphia publishers Bradford and Company as an assistant editor of a new encyclopedia. They agreed to publish Wilson's work "American Ornithology". which runs to nine volumes, They described and illustrated all the birds of America for the first time. It was published between 1808 and 1814. This great work led Wilson to be known to this day as the "Father of American Ornithology." Renfrewshire Libraries' Local Studies Library holds a copy of his work. Alexander Wilson died in 1813 in Philadelphia, where he is buried. He is honoured in his home town of Paisley with a memorial and a statue. The statue stands in the grounds of Paisley Abbey, and the memorial stands on the north bank of the River Cart at the Hammills. It is inscribed "Remember Alexander Wilson 1766-1813. Here was his boyhood playground."
The Cathedral Church of Saint Mirin, dedicated to Saint Mirin the patron saint of Paisley, is the mother church of the Catholic Diocese of Paisley and is the seat of the Bishop of Paisley. The building was completed in 1931 close to the site of the original church of the same name which dated from 1808. The original building was the first stone built Catholic church in post-Reformation Scotland. The present building was raised to cathedral status in 1948 following the erection of the diocese in 1947. The building is neo-Romanesque in style with a plain sandstone exterior and an airy arched interior: its architect was Thomas Baird. The chancel is principally of Italian marble. Of particular interest are the pulpit by Gillespie, Kidd and Coia, with a representation of the Sermon on the Mount sculpted in relief from blond sandstone, and the Stations of the Cross designed by Kenneth King of Dublin which are Art Deco in style. In the apse four colourful tripartite stained glass windows depict the Twelve Apostles.Opposite the cathedral stands a bronze statue of St Mirin by Norman Galbraith which was completed and unveiled in 2007.
The High Kirk was built in 1754, with the steeple added between 1767 and 1770. After WWI memorial windows were installed on either side of the pulpit, recognising the 414 men and women who served in the Great War, and honouring the 53 who died.
Coats Observatory is one of four public observatories operating in the UK, all of which are sited in Scotland. The building was designed by Glasgow architect John Honeyman, with funding coming from local thread manufacturer Thomas Coats. The observatory was operated by the Paisley Philosophical Institution, which had been founded on October 8th 1808. The design incorporated many impressive features of Victorian architecture including wrought iron work from the Saracen Foundry in Possilpark, Glasgow, carvings by John Young and stained glass windows featuring Galileo, Kepler and William Herschel. The building opened to the public on October 1st 1883. The first telescope was a five inch refractor built by Thomas Cooke of York. Other equipment included an orrery, spectroscope and a transit telescope. Meteorological recording was undertaken on a daily basis, and has continued uninterrupted to the present day. The Coats Observatory is also a seismic monitoring station for British Geological Survey. Coats Observatory is open on a daily basis (except Monday) and runs evening viewing nights throughout the winter months. Renfrewshire Astronomical Society meet there on a Friday evening throughout the year.
In 1872 James Clark, of the Anchor thread Mill, renewed the call for a Town Hall and asked for subscriptions to fund the project. In 1873 George A Clark left £20,000 in his will to fund the building of the Town Hall, followed with a pledge by the Clark family to fund entirely the cost of the building.
The Thomas Coats Memorial Church is an example of Gothic Revival architecture. It dominates the town's skyline with its crown spire more than 60 metres high. Opened in 1894 and designed by Hippolyte Jean Blanc[5] it is the largest Baptist church in Europe. The exterior is made of old red sandstone. The floor of the vestibule is a magnificent mosaic. There are marble drinking fountains at each end and a ceiling of stone ribbed cross vaults with gilded scrolls bearing quotations from the scriptures. The wealth and beauty of the foyer is only rivalled by the chancel. The open baptistry is formed from black-veined white marble and is large enough for total immersion. Alabaster panels, ornately sculptured, depict events in Jesus' life. The alabaster and marble pulpit, bronze lectern and carved oak communion table exhibit craftsmanship of the highest quality. Crowning the chancel is a vaulted ceiling decorated with angels. On either side of the chancel can be seen some of the 3040 pipes of the Hill Organ which is considered to be one of the finest in Europe.
For more information see http://www.fenet.net.
The John Neilson Institution was built on the site of a Roman Camp. The area was levelled in the 18th century and turned into a bowling green. John Neilson, the wealthy Paisley grocer, left a vast amount of money to found a school, which was opened on 5th April 1852. Ilegitimate children were not to be admitted to the school. Around 280 pupils enrolled in the first three months, 71 of whom were financed by the foundation established by John Neilson. The school roll increased steadily until it hit its peak of 1000 in the late 1880s. In 1927 control of the school passed from the governors to Renfrewshire education authority - the first step on the road to its ownership by Strathclyde.Pupils and teachers threw themselves into the Second World War effort. The school was kept open between 1939 and 1945 and those who stayed behind raised a staggering £35,000 for the school war relief fund. By the mid-Fifties the end was in sight for the school. Accommodation was proving an insurmountable problem and in 1960 the decision was made. A completely new building, the John Neilson High School, would be built at Ferguslie. When that opened in 1968, the porridge bowl became Oakshaw High School but within ten years it had outlived its usefulness. The former Strathclyde Regional Council deemed the nicknamed ‘porridge bowl’ surplus to requirements and it was sold to the then Renfrew District Council for £1.00 in 1980. The old school, with its distinctive cupola, was eventually sold to a private builder and converted to luxury flats. The building remains one of Paisley’s architectural landmarks. The above text from www.happyhaggis.co.uk.
Located at 11 Queen Street, the cottage was local poet Robert Tannahill's family home. He lived there until his death in 1810.
The Sma’ Shot Cottages were originally part of an area known as St Mirin’s Square and were used to accommodate workers at the old St Mirin’s Mill, which closed down in the early 1800s. Workers from the Hutchison’s Scouring Mills then occupied the buildings before they were bought by Wilson’s Market and used to house some of their key workers. The Paisley College of Technology took over ownership, eventually being purchased by the Sma’ Shot Society in 1983 and were to become a major visitor attraction in Paisley from 1985. Since then, many thousands of people have visited the cottages to enjoy a glimpse of Paisley’s past and to get a flavour of a mill worker’s life. The cottages now boast an artisan’s kitchen, Victorian parlour, two bedrooms, exhibition room, tea room, shop and an office. The above text from www.happyhaggis.co.uk.
The Old Laigh Church was the second church to be built in paisley, after the Abbey. Construction started in 1736 and opened in 1738.
Miss Agnes Russell donated the Russell Institute building to the then Paisley Burgh in 1927. She had the art deco style building built as a memorial to her two bachelor brothers, Robert and Thomas Russell who had died in 1923 and 1920.
The museum run by a group of enthusiastic volunteers, and has a large collection of photographs, promotional material and machinery from the thread mills of J & P Coats and the Clark families.
The cenotaph was unveiled in July 1924 and stands 25 feet high. On the top is the figure of a mounted crusader flanked by four infantrymen. 228 tons of granite was used in it's construction.
The Lagoon Leisure Centre is the flagship centre of Renfrewshire Leisure and caters for activities such as swimming, fitness, aerobics, various sporting activities and events.
Fountain Gardens are located on the northern fringe of Paisley town centre with the main entrance on Love Street and another entrance on Caledonia Street. This is Paisley's oldest public garden, being developed on the site of the earlier Hope Temple Gardens, which were created by John Love in 1797. John Love was a local manufacturer after whom Love Street was named. Hope Temple Gardens were formal gardens open to the public. The gardens were put up for sale in 1866 and bought by Thomas Coats of Ferguslie, an industrialist who with his brothers ran the Paisley thread manufacturing company J&P Coats. Thomas Coats had the site redesigned by the landscape architect James Craig Niven of Glasgow. Niven's new design was a grand, geometric layout with broad walkways all leading to an ornate fountain at the centre containing statues of herons, dolphins and walruses. This A-listed fountain no longer operates and requires restotation. A major feature of the new gardens was the elaborate ironwork which included lamps, gates and railings. A statue of Robert Burns was erected in the Gardens in the 1890s. The cost of the statue was funded from money raised by concerts given by the Tannahill Choir (1884 - 95) which took place on the Gleniffer Braes. The statue is located next to the fountain and is reputed to be the finest Burns statue in Britain. A sapling taken from the original "Wallace Oak" at Elderslie, prior to the tree's destruction by a storm in 1856, was planted in the new garden. Legend tells that William Wallace hid in the tree to avoid capture by his enemies. This tree can be found by the north-west entrance. www.renfrewshire.gov.uk.
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